Milford Sound, New Zealand

I had originally planned to stay in Queenstown for two nights but extended it to three when I saw that the third day was going to be rainy. Rather than be stuck indoors all day, I booked a bus tour to Milford Sound. I had originally planned to ride there but I’d read that it was always rainy there, plus it was a loooong way going there and back. Rather than spend four days getting to there, I figured a one day bus tour would be sensible.

I had to catch the bus at the absurd hour of 6:30 AM. It had huge viewing windows and a glass roof. In hindsight, it sucked a little bit to have taken the bus because I kept feeling sluggish and tired all day rather than alert and active like I am when I ride. But we did cover a huge distance and I could just relax and take in the scenery.

The Fjordland National Park scenery was fantastic, with its huge towering mountains on every side. It would have been pretty cool to have ridden that highway. The cruise itself was fine. I guess after seeing the fjords in Norway it was less than impressive? I shouldn’t compare though. It was a very pretty place and I’m glad I got to experience it.

The cruise ship

Sailing through the fjord

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Queenstown and Glenorchy

I have mixed feelings about Queenstown. On the one hand it is a spectacularly gorgeous little town. On the other, it is crawling with tourists and activities catered to them. I find that I enjoyed it when I stuck to the less populated parts. Getting really good coffee didn’t suck either.

I had heard its reputation for gouging food prices so I did the sensible thing and steered clear of the restaurants. Instead, I headed to the local supermarket and bought an entire roast chicken with some bread, mixed greens, and fresh fruit. That was enough to provide me all my meals during my three days of stay there. The upside of staying in a hostel is access to a full kitchen with a fridge to store your food and plates and silverware to eat off of. Oh, and access to a laundry was great too. I finally got to wash the few clothes I had brought with me.

The most memorable part of the day was the mindblowing ride to Glenorchy and back. It was a mere 27 mile ride but such glorious twisties and outstanding views of Lake Wakitapu!! This was the first day that I started to truly feel happy on the bike and remember exactly why I ride! :D

The little village of Glenorchy

LOTR geek, you say? Why yes, I am!

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Wanaka to Queenstown

Today was a very short riding day. Only an hour’s worth riding the 100 km from Wanaka to Queenstown. It was also a little hair raising though because I took the Crown Range road which is the highest driving road in NZ. My fear of heights really kicked in at the huge drop below and the steeply descending road and I slowed to a crawl. It is quite maddening how this works. Those same roads on solid ground I would ride fast through in a heartbeat. Add some elevation and exposed sections and I’m riding like an ass.

There were seven hairpin turns at the end which I also managed to botch up spectacularly. I remember flying down roads like that in the Alps five years before. I guess my skills have gotten quite a bit rusty since then.

Oh well, I’m in Queenstown and my hostel – Bumbler’s  Backpackers – has an epic view.

Dorm room with an incredible view at Bumbler’s Backpackers in Queenstown, NZ

Geraldine to Wanaka

Day 2 of the ride. I still felt very achy and tired. I had a bit of a long day ahead. In terms of mileage it was short if you’re in the United States but the roads here are like in Europe – twisty and winding. Most of the ride went through big sky country – vast open plains with dry brown mountains all around. It looked nothing like the photos of glorious snow-capped mountains that I had seen online so I was a bit bummed. I guess November is a far better time to visit if you want that view. The summer here had been a scorcher so all the snow had melted.

The first fantastic view I had was of Lake Tekapo. So so blue and sparkling. I pulled off the main road to find the old historic church I had read about. I walked up to the lake, snapped a few photos and took off.

Old historic church on the banks of Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo

Selfie!

And then came my first holy-crap-that’s-unbelievably-beautiful moment of my trip as I neared Lake Pukaki. Picture a bright lake with misty blue mountains encircling it. Also picture no place to pull over and just drink in the sight! How frustrating! I have never seen anything like it. If there’s a heaven, this is what it looks like.

Lake Pukaki – absolutely marvellous!

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Christchurch to Geraldine

77My second first day of riding dawned early. I took off at 8:30 AM and followed the same route as the day before, starting from Leithfield, passing through Rangiora and Oxford. I took the “scenic inland route” of Highway 72 which wound through the Canterbury Plains. I found myself occasionally wondering who named it that given that it passed through endless flat dry barren plains, a bit like the Palouse in eastern Washington after a long summer. Like the Palouse, the area is probably very beautiful in the spring when it is green for miles around but right now it was really dull and I was very bored. I was also still trying to get used to the weight and handling of the bike. After almost a year off of riding, my muscles were also trying to get used to this new position and exertion. The ride was uneventful and I made it to Geraldine at just about check-in time for the hostel.

Getting coffee in downtown Geraldine. With some ride-appropriate reading.

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