I am in the June edition of American Motorcyclist!

Last night I got my copy of American Motorcyclist – the official AMA magazine - in the mail and was delighted to see that they had published the article I wrote about my x-country ride last summer. :) They did a few minor editing changes, all of them pretty good, cutting down my long sentences to short, choppy ones. The only edit that made me chuckle was the one where they changed my sentence about chatting with other bikers over cups of gas station coffee and cigarettes to just coffee. The only thing that I’m not too pleased about is the generic, vanilla photo. I also had a drivers’s license photo moment where I did a doubletake and went – “Holy crap, is  that really what I look like?” :P. I did a photo shoot with them for almost an hour and I’m a little disappointed that you can barely even see my gorgeous bike in the photo that ended up with the article.

Ah well, minor points those. I mean hey something I wrote got published in only one of the biggest motorcycling publications in the United States! Not to brag or anything, but a new writer coudn’t ask for more! :) *pumps fist* :D

Click the image for a larger version of the article, or here for a .pdf version. Unfortunately the magazine isn’t available for purchase at a newsstand. You need to be an AMA member to get a monthly subscription.

AMAGuestColumnJune2010

Washington

Washington
The Olympic Peninsula . The Cascade Loop . The Palouse . The South Coast and Volcano Region . Hood Canal

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One Crazy Ride

One CrazyRide1

I just got home from watching One Crazy Ride, a movie made by Gaurav Jani, an Indian documentary filmmaker who makes motorcycling adventure movies. I was first introduced to his work by Vagabiker, who lent me Riding Solo to the Top of the World when we first met and I was recuperating from my crash in the Yukon. If his intention was to hasten my recovery by showing me motorcycling movies that made me chomp at the bit to get out and ride again, it worked like a charm.

Riding Solo was remarkable in so many ways. Filmmaking is a profession that is almost unheard of in India for the average person, in spite of the fact that it hosts the biggest film industry in the world. Rarer still is the use of motorcycles for touring as opposed to commuting in busy cities. The idea of combining the two on a barebones budget makes this man and his work truly unique. The movie followed his solo ride from Bombay to Ladakh in northern India on excruciatingly difficult roads unveiling region that most of the world barely knew exist. For someone like me, having led a fairly insular life in Bombay and rarely having the opportunity to travel within India, it was an eye-opener and a delightful insight into the unparalleled beauty of this country.

In One Crazy Ride, Gaurav Jani takes on a similar challenge, this time along with four friends, all part of a group called 60kph. The aim of this intrepid group of adventurers is to navigate through the north-eastern state of Arunachal Pradesh, making their way to the easternmost point without going over paved roads that went through Assam, the state bordering it on the south. Arunachal Pradesh is a state that even most Indians aren’t very familiar with, it being mostly skimmed over in geography books when we were little.  This is demonstrated eloquently as they rode through tiny villages and tribal settlements and encounter local people who had no idea what lay even a few miles outside their village.

Most of the route is by necessity off-road on roads washed out by mudslides, some littered with rocks and boulders, some slick and muddy from the rains, and occasional river crossings. On the way they encounter villages and  tribespeople living traditional lives that haven’t changed in hundreds of years. What makes their achievement truly commendable is the fact that they all rode heavily loaded Royal Enfields, bikes and equipment that make the average off-road bike on roads in the western world look like rocket science. It lays to waste the belief in most people’s minds that they need the latest, most expensive bikes in order to go “adventure riding” a marketing term if ever there was one, because when was riding a motorcycle ever not an adventure?

The movie is replete with unforgettable sights and gasp-inducing moments. One that stands out is of the group standing at the top of a mountain range and looking down at clouds floating beneath them like ocean waves. One of the stellar scenes of the movie showed Gaurav walking along a long, narrow, rickety bridge high over a river with flimsy woven rails flanking each side. This brief reconnoiter is followed by him riding his motorcycle slowly and excruciatingly over the bridge. The stress and strain of the five long minutes it took him to cross the bridge was so palpable that when he was done, there was a unanimous burst of applause in the audience.

One pleasant surprise that was unveiled during the beginning of the movie was that one of the riders, Nicky, was a woman, something that the movie didn’t make a big deal out of, in itself making it unique. Women riders are so rarely featured or represented in a positive way in the average motorcycling movie that her presence is one to make every woman in the audience who has ever donned a helmet silently cheer. (When quizzed on this by someone in the audience, the director responded that rural India has such an enduring culture of women doing the majority of the work that seeing a woman amongst the group passed without comment, as compared to reactions in more urban, westernized areas.)

To summarize, One Crazy Ride serves up everything that a truly good movie of the adventure motorcycling genre has to offer  good riding, challenging roads, quiet, cheerful camaraderie between the riders, tension and uncertainty brought on by mechanical breakdowns, interactions with people in lost, remote villages and unique insights into their lives and culture. Almost every motorcycle rider who has gone off the beaten track will feel a kinship with our heroes along with many moments of  “I know exactly what they mean!”

One Crazy Ride: http://dirttrackproductions.com/ocr.html
Dirt Track Productions: http://dirttrackproductions.com/ocr.html
Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkb4558ym5w

New X-Country Ride page…

I have added a new page that shares the highlights of my cross-country ride from this summer here: http://www.adventuresinfinite.com/rides/across-the-united-states/.

Cross-USA

Route: Vermont – New York – Montreal – Vermont – New Hampshire – Maine – Massachusetts – Connecticut – New Jersey – Pennsylvania – West Virginia – Ohio – Michigan – Wisconsin – Minnesota – South Dakota – Wyoming – Montana – Idaho – Washington (18 states, 2 countries). I shipped the bike to New Hampshire, flew there, and rode it back.

Total Miles: ~5800 miles. I averaged about 300 miles per day.

Route

Bike: My 2001 naked SV650. Why this bike? Because it was either this one or my XT225 and I wanted the power of a 650. I also wanted to ride what I already owned rather than going through the expense and effort of getting a new bike and setting it up for touring. I had already toured on the SV and while it wasn’t perfect, it had adequate power, was relatively comfortable, and had a hacky touring setup that would do. Not to mention, there aren’t very many touring bikes out there for a person my size, so it was up to me to rig out a bike that worked for touring. I comforted myself with the fact that compared to women who rode cross country a hundred years ago, this bike was still close to rocket science.

Time Taken: 1 month (mid-July to mid-August). I didn’t ride all day every day. I took a few days off to hang out with friends and see the sights.

Highlights:

  1. Visiting the east coast for the first time ever and riding up to the Atlantic Ocean.
  2. Feeling the thrill of seeing the skylines of the great east coast cities of Boston, New York and Philadelphia for the first time.
  3. Camping on Lake Champlain and riding through the Adirondacks.
  4. Spending time in Montreal and riding through a bit of Quebec.
  5. Vermont – my favorite state of all, so green, so picturesque and such perfect motorcycling roads.
  6. Riding through all of New England and on the coast of Maine.
  7. Seeing people driving buggies in Pennsylvania Dutch Amish country and spending a night at the historic Gettysburg.
  8. Visiting the AMA Motorcycling Museum in Pickerington, OH. I wouldn’t make a trip especially for this, but it’s definitely worth checking out if you are in the area. I sat on Will Smith’s bike from I Robot and saw Neil Peart’s bike!
  9. Riding the M22 along Lake Michigan.
  10. Taking the Mackinac bridge to the Upper Peninsula.
  11. Walking through the Badlands of South Dakota.
  12. South Dakota in general. Contrary to what I had heard from other riders, some of my favorite riding was through here, starting with the vast, tranquil cornfields to the east through miles of vast prairie in the middle, and
  13. suddenly out of nowhere lush green forest to the west, with Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse.
  14. Riding through some amazing roads in Wyoming to Devil’s Tower.
  15. Mostly good, calm weather in the Great Plains. I had been dreading this stretch after hearing stories from friends who rode through winds that threatened to blow their heavily loaded GSes into the other lane.
  16. Seeing the skyline of Seattle after what seemed like an eternity and forever seeing the city with new eyes.
  17. Meeting cool people along the way, like the BMW rider in Portland, from the BMWMOA anonymous book who was kind enough to give me shelter for a night after I was trapped in torrential rains and couldn’t find affordable lodging anywhere in the city; the old Korean war veteran Harley rider in New Hampshire who took my picture and showed me his medals; the crazy kid from Ohio on a Honda 919 pulling a gigantic trailer who was doing his own solo x-country ride; the cool biker boys in Rhinelander, WI; the crusty old bikers riding back from Sturgis; the riders whom I had only ever known online and finally met in real life; and so many of those out on the road that I met and chatted with over cups of gas station coffee and cigarettes.
  18. Seeing and experiencing a little of everything – big cosmopolitan cities, historic little towns, artsy towns, rural forgotten villages, hostels and campgrounds, winding, twisty roads, iconic roads, roads that went straight for days on end, big, polluted interstates, rivers, lakes, forests, mountains, prairies, glorious sunny skies, 100+ degrees sweltering heat and humidity, torrential rains, thunderstorms…
  19. Doing this alone and making it back to Seattle alive and in one piece. For those of you acquainted with the incidents from last year, this was a bit of a big deal for me.

Lowlights:

  1. Weather: Being plagued by bad weather for the first two weeks. They say this was the wettest summer the east coast has gotten in the past ten years. Riding through torrential downpours got very old very quick. I soon learned to start scanning weather reports and radar maps to map my route for the day. I had to make some hard decisions like completely avoiding riding through Virginia and Tennessee. I had been looking forward to riding the Skyline Ridge and Deal’s Gap, but alas, those areas were plagued by ugly thunderstorms and it didn’t make a sense to be miserable and ride through there just to say that I had done it. When it wasn’t raining, it 90+ degree temperatures. Closer to home, I gave both Lolo Pass and Glacier a miss because of pouring down rain and running short on time.
  2. Tollbooths: F***ing tollbooths. Waiting in line for miles in 95+ degree weather in full gear to pay toll. Losing ticket and being forced to pay the entire toll. I f***ing hate tollbooths.
  3. The Sick: Falling sick in Columbus, OH. I lost 4 whole days of riding and forced myself to ride while sick for three days afterward because I was afraid I wouldn’t make my deadline. Riding when you can barely stand kinda sucks. This also meant that I had to miss going south through Colorado like I had planned and I never really got to ride through the Rockies.
  4. Gremlins: My bike’s electrical gremlins coming back to haunt me where on two different instances the bike refused to start. I thought I had taken care of this before I had left by replacing the starter, but I was mistaken.
  5. Sturgis: Missing Sturgis, that is. Hokey as it might sound, it seemed appropriate to experience it on a ride like this, but I missed it by a day.
  6. Bike down! Having the bike go down on a gravel pullout and being unable to pick it up, predictably on a little travelled road in the middle of nowhere in Wyoming.
  7. Being stuck in bumper to bumper traffic near Sultan 30 miles away from home.

THE TRIP IN PHOTOS

VERMONT, NEW HAMPSHIRE

P1010800

Beautiful, green Vermont

Montpelier, VT

Montpelier, VT

Burlington, VT

Burlington, VT

Ferry to New York State

Ferry to New York State

NEW YORK

Camping at Cumberland State Park in NY

Camping at Cumberland State Park in NY

Lake Champlain Scenic Highway

Lake Champlain Scenic Highway

Ausuble Chasm, NY

Ausuble Chasm, NY

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MONTREAL (QUEBEC)

Auberge Jeunesse Youth Hostel, Montreal, Quebec

Auberge Jeunesse Youth Hostel, Montreal, Quebec

Downtown Montreal

Downtown Montreal

Vieux Montreal

Vieux Montreal

P1020015

Crossing back into the United States

MAINE

Portland, Maine

Portland, Maine

At the Atlantic Ocean with Bill Garcelon

At the Atlantic Ocean with Bill Garcelon

Along the Coast of Maine

Along the Coast of Maine

MASSACHUSSETTS

The site of the Boston Tea Party

The site of the Boston Tea Party

NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY

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An iconic moment

New York City across the water from Ellis Island

New York City across the water from Ellis Island

In the eye of a thunderstorm

In the eye of a thunderstorm

New Jersey diner

A New Jersey diner

New York City

New York City

PHILADELPHIA

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The Liberty Bell, PH

Riding through Philly
Riding through Philly
P1020194
The streets of Philadelphia

MARYLAND

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Cumberland, MD

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OHIO

At the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Pickerington, OH

At the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Pickerington, OH

On Will Smith's MV Augusta from "I, Robot"

On Will Smith’s MV Augusta from “I, Robot”

MICHIGAN

P1020505

P1020457

At Northport, MI, the northernmost tip of the iconic M22

Crossing the Mackinac Bridge into Michigan's Upper Peninsula

WISCONSIN

The backroads of rural Wisconsin

The backroads of rural Wisconsin

MINNESOTA

P1020547

Cherry and Spoon in Minneapolis

P1020598

SOUTH DAKOTA

P1020604

P1020648

Crossing the Badlands of South Dakota

Mt. Rushmore

Mt. Rushmore

Crazy Horse Memorial

Crazy Horse Memorial

Camping at Custer State Park

Camping at Custer State Park

WYOMING

A curious tower in the distance.

A curious tower in the distance.

Devil's Tower, WY

Devil’s Tower, WY

Hundreds of miles of barrenness

Hundreds of miles of barrenness

Old Faithful at Yellowstone National Park

MONTANA

Galladin National Forest - worth a journey by itself

Galladin National Forest – worth a journey by itself

Riding through Galladin National Forest in Montana

The lovely mountain town of Missoula, MT

The lovely mountain town of Missoula, MT

P1020775

IDAHO

1920s mobster themed restaurant in Sandpoint, ID

1920s mobster themed restaurant in Sandpoint, ID

WASHINGTON

Home again

Home again

BLOG POSTS FROM THE JOURNEY

Some last pre-journey words
Heading out to Lebanon, New Hampshire
Landed in Lebanon
Today in Hanover
Vermont and New Hampshire
Montpelier by Night
Nightfall at Cumberland
Philadelphia
Columbus, Ohio
Update from Lake Michigan
From Rhinelander, Wisconsin
Getting to Minneapolis
St. Ignace, Minneapolis
Riding through South Dakota
Custer State Park, Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse, South Dakota
Update from Ten Sleep, Wyoming
Day 2 in Missoula, Montana
Update from Sandpoint, Idaho
Home Again

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